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Long-term View for a Family Business

There is considerable concern about the effect of the global financial crisis on the Australian wine industry. However Australia is in a far better shape financially than most other countries. The continuing drought is a greater concern for us as an estate vineyard, due to a lack of soil moisture for the vineyards and water for the environment. Organic and biodynamic practices are our best chance of drought proofing. Nowadays Prue is establishing the vineyards with a permanent sod culture of native grasses in the rows, such as Danthonia sp., which are mowed down low. A mulch of wheat straw is used under the vines to retain soil moisture, placed over a layer of biodynamic compost produced from recycling the winery vintage grape marc, to build up organic matter and inhibit weed growth. This makes for a healthy vineyard and environment.

Henschke is a family business here for the long term; last year we proudly celebrated our 140th anniversary. The winery property was purchased in 1861, vineyards were planted, the cellar built and the first wines sold in 1868. The winery has passed from father to son for five generations, and with the same aim today of providing our customers with exceptional wines from outstanding vineyards.

- posted: 18/06/2009

Prue's Corner

Managing Our Vineyards in a Changing Climate

A drought winter and the driest September and October for decades set the stage for a season of drought survival and a slightly traumatized viticulturist.

Drawing on all my resources to drought proof the vineyard, orders for compost and straw mulch were brought forward by two years and every vineyard was bedded down for the dry season. Our water reserves were very low and only selected sites were watered and the rest were dry grown. Thirty percent of the Eden Valley vineyard was ‘mothballed’. Then in mid-December 50mm of badly needed beautiful rain fell on the vineyards, giving them a lifeline for the rest of the season. It also tied in well with our biodynamic soil sprays.

The heat wave in early February was at the beginning of veraison (colour change in the berries) and there was very little damage to the fruit. The ‘flavour switches’ happen at veraison so cool day temperatures are important for quality. From veraison to harvest, the weather was very moderate with only one day over 30C and a bonus rain event in early March. Yields were lower due to poor set from the cool period during flowering.

Our Lenswood vineyard in the Adelaide Hills was a star performer this year. 800mm of rainfall (usually 1148mm) and moderate temperatures over the ripening period gave us outstanding fruit from all our varieties - from pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, riesling to merlot even.

We continued our organic vineyard management this year without any problems, including a small pocket of chardonnay which finally got ‘the milk treatment’ - a 10% solution of full cream milk which is a very effective organic spray that dries out the fungus.

The rain has just arrived as I write. The autumn biodynamic soil sprays are going out onto all the vineyards and the last of the grapes have just been picked from what we nicknamed the Hill of Unearthly Delights. This is a delicious collection of new emerging varieties at Eden Valley containing tempranillo, graciano, nebbiolo and barbera. For a young part of the vineyard that has survived without irrigation, the fruit flavours are very exciting, which was consistent with the whole of our crop this vintage. Maybe we will see these wines at cellar door as a special release.

- posted: 18/06/2009

2005 Hill of Grace "…a liquid national treasure..."

NATIONAL TREASURE 99 POINTS
"Arguably the most anticipated release in recent times, this doesn't disappoint. Fragrant rose petal and Turkish delight notes ahead of deep-seated spice and earthy vineyard nuances. Blackberry and Satsuma plum flavours on the palate, a sweep of dark-spiced oak, rippling long through the finish. Archetypally perfect, this is a liquid national treasure with 40+ glorious years ahead".
99 Points Nick Stock, Wine 100 Magazine, May 09.

MAGNIFICENT 99 POINTS
"Captivating dark berries from great depths, subtle and sophisiticated with alluring mocha cream layers spilling seductively into the mouth, then gently exploding fruits, fresh tweaks of raspberry creams, and a certain tira misu character that references its aromas over a submerged layer of oak, allowing space to reflect on its balance, elegance and harmony. Magnificent, one of the greats".
99 Points Tony Love, Adelaide Advertiser, Apr 09.

98 POINTS
Silky smooth and powerful, with multi-layers of complexity on the palate. The aromas are pure indulgence with a mix of primary plum fruits and blackberry nuances overlaid with spices,licorice and game. The palate has a soft, supple texture with fine, ripe, silky tannins. An effortlessly long palate that just floats on forever. Glorious. Good for 25 years in the cellars.
98 Points Ray Jordan, West Australian, May09

PERFECTLY SEAMLESS
Sweetly perfumed with floral, spice, dark berries, new leather, coffee bean and orange rind. A complete wine, perfectly seamless. Ethereal tannins.
Ken Gargett, Courier Mail, May 09

GLORIOUS PURITY
The year's release sure smells interesting. Oyster shells and baked bread, violets and crushed spice… The palate though is a boom. Glorious purity and condition. Plum jam, crushed violets, cedarwood and barrel smoke. Velvety texture. Like grabbing handfuls of fresh blue berries and boysenberries. Like drinking an Eden Valley summer. Tannin reaches nicely but not necessarily elaborately through the wine, and it finishes with an exotic aftertaste of soy and sesame. Hard to fault.
Campbell Mattinson, winefront.com.au April 09

A RARE NOBILITY
Old vines by themselves do not promise a transcendent trip in the glass. But, if the planets are aligned and the grape variety, the region and the maker are sympathetic and nurturing, they can provide rare nobility that simply isn't found in wine from young vines.
Jeni Port, The Age, March 09

- posted: 26/05/2009