25 February 2006, Huon Hooke, Sydney Morning Herald
The remarkable Henschke label has had its ups and downs like any wine company, but its current batch of wines is truly exceptional.
To start at the top, the 2001 Hill of Grace is a wonderfully complex, profound shiraz that unfolds more smoky, toasty, blackberry and mint flavours the longer it's in the glass. From a hot, dry year, it has tremendous concentration but avoids stressed or baked characters.
The 2002 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon is among the best Cyrils I've tasted: a beautifully balanced, elegant wine from a textbook Eden Valley season, with a style all its own. Aromas of blueberry, cassis, raspberry and sandalwood keep on unfolding.
The new wine, 2002 Tappa Pass Shiraz, is one of the most exciting wines of the past year: a sumptuous, spicy/meaty, blackberry-flavoured wine that is so complex it's hard to describe.
The 2004 Johann's Garden is a succulent, super-ripe grenache-dominant blend which demonstrates Henschke's versatility with red styles.
The whites are also in top form. I think the 2004 Croft Lenswood Chardonnay is the best of this line so far: a finer, more balanced wine with more primary fruit to match its oak and other complexities.
The 2005 Littlehampton Innes Vineyard Pinot Gris is the best of this line excepting the sensational '02: soft, rich, spicy and rounded, with distinctive texture and aroma.
The '05 vintage was outstanding for all whites, and the '05 Julius Eden Valley Riesling is a cracker: intensely floral, restrained and soft, a great riesling to drink any time over the next 12 years. And the '05 Coralinga Sauvignon Blanc is delightful, with intense lime-juice and grassy fragrances galore.
This parade of delights will ensure Henschke remains at the peak of the Australian winemaking industry.